Saturday, May 5, 2012

Kentwell: Progress!

I'm not checking in as much as I'd thought I would, mostly because I'm taking that time I'd otherwise spend blogging, and using it to sew.  So here's a quick recap of what I've got so far:

One smock of white linen:  All of the body seams are sewn, and I cut a head-hole. I expect to shape the neckline of the smock once I have the petticoat and kirtle figured out, so that the appropriate close-fitted neckline band shows, and little else. I've got a bunch of seams that need flat felling in places that will show, so I've been bundling it up and taking it to work. Yes, to work.  I've got a recurring daily debugging and support meeting that I sit in on mostly because it provides really interesting background that's very helpful when I'm writing about that particular feature. I'm not actually needed in the meeting, but it helps me understand the system better, and so I don't feel like I need to participate in the discussion.  I've got most of the first smock's seams hand-felled now. That linen (and I wish I knew where it'd come from!) is a dream to work with, so I'm thinking that I might cut and sew the other smock lest I run out of things to do in that meeting.

The petticoat will be of russet woolen (lightweight!) with an unbleached linen canvas body - which is to say bodice - attached. I patterned the bodice piece off my most recent English bodice, then took it in a smidge so that I can lace it mostly-closed but still have room for the inevitable shifting and stretching that I'm told to expect.  I also had to take the waist up quite a bit to avoid tabbing it.  I always forget this, but later period Elizabethan stuff is ideally rather long waisted, and I have a very *short* waist.  We're talking 1" below my bottom rib here.  So I've always made my stays long and tabbed a la Effigy Corset, but that's not needed or really appropriate for early Tudor lines.  (For those of you tuning in at home, the Year this year is 1556.) The front is, of course, done in hand worked, spiral-laced eyelets. (More things for that meeting!) Those who're interested in such things will be pleased to know that I used a variation of the Dorothea Sabine von Neuburg front boning pattern, and I'm boning it with flat reed splints which I LOVE because you can work them with craft scissors.   The petticoat skirting then attaches to the edge of this bodice, but I haven't quite figured that out. There's apparently a way to do this so the edge pads the waist where it might otherwise dig in.

The skirt of the petticoat is cut and hanging out on my dress form.  The dress form is a story for another time as well. Sigh.

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